Andrew Galloway goes for a beer at the top and a beer at the bottom on this route of Yr Wyddfa via Cwellyn Arms.
Shelters of one description or another have stood at the summit of Yr Wyddfa for more than two hundred years. The first were simple stone shelters where early nineteenth century tourists took refuge from the worst of the Cambrian weather. In 1894 the Snowdon Mountain Tramroad Company applied to George Assheton Smith, owner of the Faenol Estate, to sell alcohol from the summit buildings, although the railway wasn’t actually competed until 1896. A concrete and steel station building, designed by Clough Williams-Ellis of Portmeirion fame, was built in 1935. Resembling a nuclear bunker, this building survived until 2006 when it was demolished to make way for the present terminus and cafe, Hafod Eryri, where you can still buy a bottle of Cwrw. If balancing around the crags of Yr Wyddfa under the influence of alcohol isn’t your thing, wait until you’re safely back at the bottom of the path to quench your thirst. The Cwellyn Arms in the village of Rhyd Ddu has been providing walkers with food and quality ales for decades.
Yr Wyddfa via Cwellyn Arms: route description
Start/Finish: Eryri National Park car park by the Welsh Highland Railway station at Rhyd Ddu on the A4085. There is a charge of £6 For the car park (GR: SH570525) | Distance: 14km (8.8 miles) | Ascent: 982m (3,222 feet) | Duration: 7 hours | Maps: Ordnance Survey 1:25,000 Yr Wyddfa, Snowdon, OL17
1. SH570535: From the car park at the Rhyd Ddu railway station walk northwards, parallel to the railway tracks, for 100m to where a gate gives access to a level crossing. A post here points to Yr Wyddfa/Snowdon. Cross the tracks and follow the broad track for 1.5km to an intersection of paths at Pen ar Lôn. A stone way-marker by a gate indicates the Rhyd Ddu continuing to the left.
The Cwellyn Arms, Rhyd Ddu. Credit: Andrew Galloway
2. SH582524: Follow the Rhyd Ddu path to the north-east for 1km to a wooden gate in a wall where the ruins of a building stands just beyond. Take a moment here to look to the west, where in good weather there is a dramatic view across Llyn Cwellyn towards Mynydd Mawr. Through the gate, continue along the path, now becoming steeper, for a further 800m to a wall boasting a brand new aluminium gate.
Mynydd Mawr Llyn Cwellyn & Llechog Buttress seen from the start of Bwlch Main. Credit: Andrew Galloway
3. SH592536: Beyond the gate the path crosses the flank of the Lechog Buttress. After 640m a rather dilapidated wooden gate provides access to the buttress ridge. From this point the route becomes increasingly exposed, though never warranting the use of hands. A waist high wire fence provides a modicum of assurance on the steepest section of zig-zags, but peters out before the slope above Cwm Clogwyn is crossed.
Looking into Cwm Clogwyn from Bwlch Main. Credit: Andrew Galloway
4. SH605537: A spot height of 931m on the Ordnance Survey 1:25,000 map marks the start of Bwlch Main. This narrow ridge, connecting the Lechog Buttress to the summit of Yr Wyddfa, is less than 300m in length and approximately 2m wide at its narrowest point. The path runs just to the right and just below the main ridge.
Yr Wyddfa & Cwm Clogwyn seens from Llechog Buttress. Credit: Andrew Galloway
Confident walkers should have no problem getting from one side to the other without the use of hands, other than for occasional reassurance. Nonetheless, the drop to the right is more than 500m and may be unsettling to the novice. This section of the path is best avoided in strong winds. A second spot height of 993m marks the end of all difficulties. The summit of Yr Wyddfa sits a somewhat strenuous 370m further to the north-east.
Summit shenanigans – Hafod Eryri – railway station and cafe. Credit: Andrew Galloway
5. SH609543: From the summit cairn descend the stone steps to the north and take the well-constructed path beside the railway line for 580m to Bwlch Glas where a stone way-marker points to the start of the Ranger Path.
6. SH607548: Cross the railway and descend to the west above the well-known climbing crags of Clogwyn Du’r Arddu. Caution is advised at the steep sections of the path above Llyn Ffynnon y Gwas. By the time you reach Bwlch Cwm Brwynog at the northern shore of the lake, Bwlch Glas will be 2.6km behind you. A good time to take a break. Continue westwards along the Ranger Path for 1.5km to where two streams meet by a wire fence.
Clogwyn Coch seen from the Snowdon Ranger path. Credit: Andrew Galloway
7. SH575553: Cross the fence to the south by means of a stile from where wooden stakes mark a right of way. The ground can be boggy here, even when the weather has been dry. Follow the stakes to the south for 1.2km to where a footbridge crosses the Afon Treweunydd. Continue to the south around the base of a slate tip. After 200m the tip is intersected by an incline. Walk eastwards between the tips along the incline. After 160m look for a narrow path on the right climbing steeply onto the top of the tip. Cross the top of the tip and descend on the other side to a ladder stile.
Yr Wyddfa seen from Cwm Treweunydd. Credit: Andrew Galloway
8. SH578539: Head southwards for 900m across fields that can be boggy at any time of year, keeping to the south of the craggy Clogwyn-y-gwîn, until the tracks of the Welsh Highland Railway are reached. Cross the tracks at the designated foot crossing. Now within sight of the village of Rhyd Ddu relief is provided by a well-engineered cinder path. Follow this for 300m, keeping to the left where it branches. Short of the main road, at a gate turn left and follow the green lane behind cottages to return to the car park at Rhyd Ddu station.
Further information
Public Transport: the Sherpa S3 bus operates a regular service between Caernarfon and Rhyd Ddu. For further details check the Sherpa website: www.sherparwyddfa.wales
Information: Parc Cenedlaethol Eryri, www.eryri.gov.wales
