Is this the best peak-to-pub route in Grasmere? James Forrest explores a snowy Helm Crag and Far Easedale, before warming up in the excellent Tweedies Bar.
Helm Crag is a small mountain with a big reputation. Rising above Grasmere, it was once declared by Alfred Wainwright as a summit experience “better than Scafell, Helvellyn and Skiddaw”, thanks to its remarkable outcrops of rock. A winter ascent reveals exactly what he meant. From the village, a steady climb soon leads onto the crest, where the famous Lion and the Lamb formation sits proudly at the ridge’s end.
It’s a just-about-manageable scramble if conditions allow, but the true summit lies further along at the Howitzer, a fearsome block of stone that challenges even confident scramblers. In icy or snowy weather, it’s best admired from below, before continuing along the ridge to Gibson Knott and Calf Crag. The descent through Far Easedale provides a gentler way back, with the snowy crags and frozen becks adding to the wintry drama.
After braving the elements, there’s no better reward than a pint and hearty meal at Tweedies Bar in Grasmere. With its excellent range of craft beers, generous portions of tasty pub food and a lively outdoorsy atmosphere, it’s the perfect post-walk refuge. A classic Lakeland day: crisp winter fells followed by a cosy fireside pint.
Helm Crag via Tweedies: route description
START/FINISH: Grasmere village centre, next to Heaton Cooper Studio, LA22 9SX (NY336076) | MAPS: OS Explorer OL7 (1:25k), OS Landranger 90 (1:50k), Harvey British Mountain Map Lake District (1:40k) | DISTANCE: 12.4km / 7.7 miles | ASCENT: 613m / 2,011ft | DURATION: 4.5 hours
1. NY336076: From the centre of Grasmere, head north-north-west up Easedale Road. Go past the YHA. Continue north-west on the road, passing a row of cottages and crossing Goody Bridge over River Rothay. Follow the road as it loops right and then left to arrive at a junction next to cottages. Turn right on a track marked ‘Helm Crag Footpath’ by a fingerpost sign. Climb north on the stony track and go through a gate.
Views to Grasmere Lake from the ascent of Helm Crag. Credit: James Forrest
2. NY327085: Veer left briefly before turning right at a junction. Go along a walled track and emerge onto open fellside. Turn right to reach a cairn. Turn left to pick up the path ascending Helm Crag. Climb steeply, following a wooden fence first and then to the left of a dry stone wall. Where the wall swings right next to a large boulder, turn left and climb west and north on a good path. At a cairn, the path loops east and zig-zags uphill. Gain the ridge and turn left. Climb steeply over rocky ground, veer to the left of The Lion and The Lamb outcrops, and continue over flatter terrain to arrive at The Howitzer summit. Competent winter scramblers may wish to explore both of these rocky outcrops, but caution should be taken. A fall could be fatal.
Two hikers on The Lion and The Lamb outcrop. Credit: James Forrest
3. NY326093: Descend north-west from The Howitzer and pick up a cairned path zig-zagging downhill to the col at Bracken Hause. Climb gently before veering left on a clear path traversing to the west of higher ground, rather than taking the ridge directly ahead. Rejoin the ridge after traversing and head north-west over undulating terrain to the cairned summit of Gibson Knott. Continue north-west and west on the ridge, negotiating a series of minor depressions and rises. Pass beyond Pike of Carrs and arrive at the summit of Calf Crag.
Snowy views to Far Easedale. Credit: James Forrest
4. NY301104: Descend gently west and south-west, crossing a stream and passing to the left of the tarn at Brownrigg Moss. Arrive at a cairn next to a line of old metal fence posts and turn left. Descend south-east on a stone-pitched path, staying above and to the left of a stream. Follow the stream as it veers east. Take care as the path crosses the stream before continuing downhill, aiming east into the Far Easedale valley. Veer south-east to pass above a couple of prominent sheepfolds and a holly tree, and arrive at a footbridge over Far Easedale Gill.
Descending the Far Easedale valley. Credit: James Forrest
5. NY318093: Cross the footbridge and turn right. Bear south-east, following the gill and a dry stone wall. As the gill heads south, turn left along the wall and arrive at flatter terrain. Veer left and right past stone barns and continue beyond Brimmer Head Farm. Continue east past another stone barn and along a wide, walled lane. Ascend briefly and arrive at path junction. Continue ahead before turning right through a gate. Descend the stony path next to houses and turn left on the road. Retrace your steps along the road back into Grasmere village. Now it’s time to head to Tweedies Bar (www.tweediesgrasmere.com) for some well-deserved food and drinks.
Further information
PUBLIC TRANSPORT: Take Stagecoach’s 555 Lancaster-Keswick bus and alight at Grasmere
TOURIST INFORMATION: www.visitlakedistrict.com
