Bowfell via Hell Gill: route guide

Norman Hadley goes to ‘hell’ and back via the Climbers’ Traverse on this mapped route of Bowfell via Hell Gill and Whorneyside Force.

England’s sixth summit presents an imposing face to every point of the compass. With a pivotal position at the hub of Lakeland’s watersheds, its rains are scattered as far afield as Carlisle, Ravenglass and Ulverston. It is most often seen, and admired, from Langdale and this is our approach but by a slightly circuitous route. Yes, you could blast up to the summit via the well-graded steps of the Band, but our way weaves around the direct route, taking mysterious detours with discovery around each corner – including a dip at Whorneyside Force.

‘Not all who meander are lost’ should be your mantra for today, with an ascent zigzagging into the jungly dell of Oxendale, escaping via the miniature canyon of Hell Gill, skirting the devious Climbers’ Traverse and finally padding up the uniquely impressive Great Slab. Even then, the adventure isn’t over, with a tricky-to-find descent off Hanging Knotts, following the stud-marks of Bob Graham runners over Rossett Pike and a final descent to Stake Pass. Best of all, despite the hair-raising names, nothing is as difficult as it sounds.

Bowfell via Hell Gill: route description

START/FINISH: Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel | MAPS: OS Explorer South-western Lake District OL6 (1:25k), Harvey Ultra Map Lake District West (1:40k) | DISTANCE: 12.9 km / 8 miles | ASCENT: 930m / 3,050ft | DURATION: 4 hours, or more if splashing about in the gill

1. NY286060: From the car park, pass through the kissing gate and cross the cobbled packhorse bridge to the right-angled bend in the valley-road, by the post box. Take the signposted and tarmacked road to Stool End Farm, crossing a cattle grid as you go. Follow signage through the farmyard and exit onto the Land Rover track slanting up to the left. Ignore the track branching right onto the Band. Follow the track along the wall parallel to Oxendale Beck, funneled to the left of a sheepfold. At the end of the walls, branch up rightwards to gain a good track heading up the valley. Cross Buscoe Sike by a small footbridge at the bottom of a distinctive grassy nose. Head up the south side of the beck to get a closer look at Whorneyside Force or even swim in the plunge pool.

2. NY263052: Retreat a little and clamber up the western slope onto the grassy nose. This is steep and a bit of a tussock-clutcher, but short-lived. Follow the gill up, then boulder-hop across the beck where an ash tree grows distinctively down the rocks.

3. NY260054: Pick up a set of graded steps up the west side of Hell Gill itself. A few scrambly sections add interest but aren’t hard. The ravine makes an impressive spectacle from above and it is strongly advised not to fall in. Looking over your shoulder, Pike O Blisco makes an attractive conical backdrop. Keep following the beck up, making sure you don’t get diverted up into the hollow of Green Hole on your left.

4. NY252060: If you’re not careful, the natural route will lead you up to Three Tarns and you’ll miss out on the excitement of the Climbers’ Traverse. At the 560m, contour, a rickle of stones is a useful waypoint to indicate that you should start to bear right up to cross the Band. First cross the main path (which skirts the southern side of the ridge) then up to the ridge itself. Bear left, and up, remembering the first lesson of fellwalking: it’s further than you think.

5. NY250064: When you get to 750 metres, take the traverse snaking off to the north. It manages to be spectacular yet nowhere difficult: a thin trod passing beneath impressive crags. The one obstacle is probably a small jump down which may prove tricky for the short of leg.

6. NY246066: After about 400m of along, it’s time for some more up. This is achieved with a sharp zag left. At first this is loose and stony, but the option is presented to escape left onto the Great Slab which proves, in dry weather at least, a delightful inclined playground to pad up, reminiscent of the huge slabs of Skye.

7. NY246064: When the ground levels out at the top of the Slab, join the cairned path up from Three Tarns. In mist, note that the summit requires a slight detour south.

8. NY245064: From the summit, hold the ridge to the north top of Hanging Knotts, avoiding the cairned temptations of the main track down to Ore Gap. Locate a thin trod slanting down to Rossett Pass. It may seem sketchy and rough, but this is the route of the Bob Graham Round, so be thankful you aren’t halfway through that monster. At Rossett Pass, make the risibly easy ascent to the rocky turret of Rossett Pike, and continue along its crest.

9. NY254080: To cut off the corner of Stake Pass, locate a thin trod dropping off the crest and taking a slanting traverse to join the Stake Pass zigzags at about 420 metres. Descend to Mickleden and follow the main track down, the scent of the Old Dungeon Ghyll already in your nostrils. Having survived Hell Gill, the Great Slab and the Climbers’ Traverse, you’ve got bragging rights in the Climbers’ Bar.

Further information

PUBLIC TRANSPORT: Stagecoach bus 516 from Ambleside will take you up Langdale, reducing traffic congestion in the valley.

TOURIST INFORMATION: www.visitlakedistrict.com , 01539 822222

More to explore: mapped walking routes in the Lake District