Julia Clarke takes in a circuit on one of the most popular Munros – Ben Lomond – and the Hot Tottie Sauna on the iconic West Highland Way for post-Munro-recovery.
Ben Lomond barely needs any introduction, looming proudly over the eastern banks of bonny Loch Lomond. Its proximity to Glasgow and sweeping loch views make it one of the more popular Munros, but you won’t encounter the volume of crowds here as you might on Ben Nevis. When approached by the Mountain Path, it’s a longish but lovely walk to the top over a well-hewn path, with a dramatic summit. Taking the slightly more rugged Ptarmigan route on descent makes for a quieter second half with dazzling views.
Ben Lomond + Hot Tottie Sauna: route description
Start/finish: Rowardennan car park (NS359986) | Map: OL39 Loch Lomond North | Distance: 12km / 7.5 miles | Ascent: 990m / 3,248ft | Duration: 4.5 – 5.5 hours | Difficulty: 3/5
1. NS360986: Walk through the information centre and take the signposted path heading NE through the woods. Continue straight through a trail junction, through three gates and follow the excellent path up the open hill with your destination in clear sight.
2. NN373025: After a brief flatter section on the shoulder, a couple of switchbacks take you up a final climb to the rim of a dramatic corrie. Watch your footing as you proceed to the summit trig point with the cliff edge to your left.
Hikers heading down Ben Lomond on the Mountain Path with Loch Lomond before them. Credit: Julia Clarke
3. NN367029: Continue NW on the Ptarmigan route, which entails a steep and rocky descent before a brief climb to Ptarmigan at NN358022. From there, it’s a clear but rocky trail heading S until you leave the ridge and follow a direct path to the woods.
4. NS36199: At a trail junction, turn left and follow the burn to a dirt road. Turn left past the youth hostel to the car park.
Hot Tottie Sauna sits at the foot of Ben Lomond on the West Highland Way. Credit: Julia Clarke
THE WEE HEAT: Hot Tottie Sauna
Hot Tottie Sauna is a 5-minute walk along the West Highland Way on the grounds of the Rowardennan Hotel. Opened by scientist and cold water swimmer Kieran Izzett, this sauna is a welcome stop for thru-hikers and day hikers from Ben Lomond and the friendlier Conic Hill. The views of the country’s largest loch are unbeatable, and when the steam starts coming out of your ears, you can jump in from the jetty, then replenish your energy at the Clansman Bar.
For more summit-to-sauna Munro days, see Julia Clarke’s guide to the best in Scotland.
