Beinn Fhada (Ben Attow): route guide

Ian Battersby gets his hands on a tucked away coastal scramble of Beinn Fhada, Kintail Forest, Northwest Highlands.

The mountains of west coast of Scotland saw glacial action scouring paths to the sea, and now the long melted ice returns, with tides pushing the coastal waters far inland. Waves travel up the Sound of Sleat into Loch Alsh, driving even further up Loch Duich where high ground holds the line for now. Among these mountains Beinn Fhada (or Ben Attow) lies tucked away, hiding from fame behind the Five Sisters ridge. The calmed Atlantic swell at the head of Loch Duich glimpses its western wall and the narrow, saw tooth ridge around Sgùrr a’ Choire Ghairbh. Once seen, it can’t be ignored.

The approach around the back is simple enough, and the very top is a gentle grassy rise, running with mountain hares, topping out over imposing corries, but to make a circular journey that wobbly ridge has to be taken on. There is plenty of hand on rock action, voids to be avoided, and good navigation skills are essential for a descent through wildly undulating ground, but a short, significant scramble may be the ultimate stumbling block. It’s only grade 1, but give it a dry day when wide grins beat the furrowed brow.

Beinn Fhada: route description

START/FINISH: National Trust car park, Morvich; NG961210 | MAPS: OS Explorer 414 (1:25k), OS Landranger 33 (1:50k) | DISTANCE: 17.8km / 11.1 miles | ASCENT: 1,269m / 4,163ft | DURATION: 8 hours

1. NG961210: Head E along the lane passing the campsite on the L. Climb several steps on the L to follow the riverside path E, re-joining the lane at the Affric Kintail Way junction. At the road end turning circle turn L over the bridge. Head N on track signposted Glomach Falls to a second Falls signpost after a house on the right.

2. NG968212: Cross the footbridge and follow the path E past a second house and through a gate. Continue past a green metal shed as the path bends N, entering woods at a deer fence gate. The path travels through birch trees and begins a long arc bending NE to SE, passing through two deer fenced woodlands. (Ignore the L turn for the Glomach between these woods).

Once in open country, and past pine forests to the N, the path heads SE above the river, passing waterfalls and heading for the rocky dome of Meall a’ Bheallaich. At 300m enter a wide corrie, with a magnificent waterfall. Go through metal fence posts, and cross the stream below the falls on boulders. The path veers NE away from the corrie for the moment, then climbs zigzags to a junction marked by a small cairn (415m).

3. NH007214: Turn R heading SW and contouring S into the corrie on good path below the fine Creag Coire an Sgàirne ridge. Continue SE, climbing the corrie wall on zigzags to 580m and entering Coire an Sgàirne littered with rocks that have fallen from its ring of crags. Follow the path climbing SE along the left side of the combe and zigzagging up a grassy rake to a cairn set on a broad ridge. The path turns R heading along the right-hand side of the ridge with imposing views into the corrie, but don’t miss the views across Loch a’ Bhealaich to Sgùrr nan Ceathramhnan over the western edge. Turn L by a small cairn (820m) and follow a minor path climbing SE through scarpering mountain hares to 1000m, turning E for the trig point and shelter of Beinn Fhada (1032m).

4. NH019192: Head W, then WNW, dropping on minor path to pass a sizeable pool on Plaide Mhòr. Now vehicle tracks continue climbing WNW along the northern edge from where minor path climbs W to the cairn topping Meall an Fhuarain Mhòir (954m). The ridge ahead leads to the scramble, or simply return to Plaide Mhòr and follow the northern edge to re-join the outward path to return.

5. NH000196: For daredevils the ridge dives NW into a notch, then climbs NW along a knife-edge, with very steep drops on the right. The ridge bends N, climbing to Ceum na h-Aon-choise (925m). Drop NW into Bealach an t-Sealgaire to face the short scramble. Climb N up a grassy rake then up joints in slabs to reach Sgùrr a’ Choire Ghairbh (864m). From here the ridge is broader, but rather chaotic, with sharp bumps that need some hand on rock technique. Follow the ridge NE to a summit at 870m then NNW, dropping to a dip below the high point of 757m. Follow the depression WNW, continuing down broad, and pathless ridge crossing peat hags to reach Beinn Bhuidhe (502m). Continue dropping W eventually regaining the path as the ridge narrows. Meet a deer fence corner and follow it NE to a junction. Turn L through the gate and follow the fence generally WSW down to our outward path near the green metal shed.

6. NG969214: Turn L on the path and retrace earlier steps to return.

Further information

PUBLIC TRANSPORT: Citylink Buses 915, 916 and 917 from Glasgow, Inverness, Uig and Portree (bus stops a mile W of start on A87)

TOURIST INFORMATION: Portree iCentre 01478 612992