A short but savage ascent and a riverside sauna escape are the highlights of this day of solitude set in remote Balquhidder Glen, climbing down from Cruach Àrdrain to Rvival Sauna.
Though it looms large over Crianlarich, the distinctive peak of Cruach Àrdrain is best reached via its sister Munro, Beinn Tulaichean, from Inverlochlarig – near the final resting place of the outlaw Rob Roy MacGregor. The real highlight of this hike is the wondrous Balquhidder Glen, a dramatic 12-mile-long valley that’s barely been touched by human hands. The hike up Beinn Tulaichean is unforgiving, but its intensity is softened by its relative brevity and breathtaking views down the glen. There’s always the option to turn back after you reach Beinn Tulaichean for a shorter jaunt – but the Scottish art of bumsliding is advised, if not inevitable.
Looking out at Monachyle Burn from Rvival Sauna. Credit: Julia Clarke
Beinn Tulaichean + Rvival Sauna: route description
Start/finish: Inverlochlarig, near Balquhidder (NN445185) | Map: OL39 and OL46 | Distance: 12.5km / 7.75 miles | Ascent: 1,019m / 3,3343ft | Duration: 5 – 7 hours | Difficulty: 4/5
1. NN445185: A 4km single-track road along the N shore of Loch Voil leads to a large parking area. From there, continue along the dirt road to the farm at Inverlochlarig. The path is well-signed to the right. Cross the stile and head uphill past a hydro building.
2. NN435186: A cairn marks a left-hand turn where you’ll join a fainter path up the boggy slopes of Beinn Tulaichean. There is no clear track, but remaining to the left of a large, pyramidical cairn and then in a generally NW direction is as good an approach as any.
Walking to the summit of Beinn Tulaichean with a cloudy Cruach Àrdrain in the distance. Credit: Julia Clarke
3. NN426188: At around 500m, cross through a gate and continue climbing for another 200m, before a brief flat section. A clear path soon comes into sight. Follow it NNW past magnificent rock formations along the ridgeline to a summit cairn.
4. NN417196: Cross the bealach NNW and descend briefly before climbing towards Cruach Àrdrain summit, about 1km further on.
5. NN413204: When you get back to the bealach, a cairn marks a L turn. Follow for a more forgiving descent through Inverlochlarig glen. When you reach the track, turn right and head back towards the farm.
You’ll get a cosy dryrobe so you can sit outside Rvival sauna and cool off in comfort. Credit: Julia Clarke
THE WEE HEAT: Rvival Sauna
Rvival Sauna on the grounds of Monachyle Mhor hotel is close to several Munros, including Ben More and Ben Vorlich, but from here it’s only a seven-minute drive. Expedition guide and survivalist Eliza Brown founded Rvival to teach people traditional nature-based skills. Her crew includes expert outdoor guides like cold water swimming specialist Gilly McArthur, hence the addition of the large sauna, which sits on the banks of Monachyle Burn and has a refreshing swimming hole for a dip.
For more summit-to-sauna Munro days, see Julia Clarke’s guide to the best in Scotland.
