Ian Battersby busses in to be led astray by the Five Sisters of Kintail.
Legend tells of seven sisters, daughters of a local Kintail farmer, that made acquaintance with two visiting brothers, perhaps princes, and presumably handsome, who resumed their travels, taking the youngest sisters with them. They left the older five with a promise that their own five brothers (uh-huh) would be along soon to whisk them away too. But the promise was false, and the long-suffering sisters running out of time, so they had themselves cast into mountain peaks so that their beauty would endure until such a time as the brothers would deem to turn up. Luckily for us, and likely the sisters too, they still have yet to show.
The ridge undoubtedly embraces a certain beauty, but perhaps time has yielded additional qualities. The tops are resilient and rugged, and they stand united in accomplished independence, close knit, and facing problems together. Their heads may sometimes still be in the clouds, but for a chosen few who tackle the quest for the crest well, they may reveal their true love, parting the veil to reveal majestic surroundings, that may encourage a tentative belief in the miracle of magic after all.
Five Sisters of Kintail: route description
START/FINISH: Five Sisters trail head; NH005135 (Request stop for buses) | MAPS: OS Explorer 414 (1:25k), OS Landranger 33 (1:50k) | DISTANCE: 14.1km / 8.8 miles | ASCENT: 1513m / 4,964ft | DURATION: 6.5 hours
1. NH005135: Take the path (signed “Hill Path”) N through the deer fence, climbing through pine forest to a track. Turn R and immediately L at a cairn, heading N to exit the forest (350m). Follow path NW past a waterfall, climbing diagonally up the ridge flank. The path disappears at around 580m. Make your own way NW towards a dip in the ridge top L of a prominent rocky bluff, using a grassy rake that turns into a gill leading to the base of scree under the bluff, with rocky slabs on the L. Climb past the scree to gain the crest of the ridge.
Sgùrr na Carnach and Sgùrr Fhuaran from Sgùrr na Ciste Duibhe. Credit: Ian Battersby
Climb SW on path then NW to gain Sgùrr na Ciste Duibhe (1027m). Its stunning panorama, including Ben Nevis and the Cuillin Ridge on Skye has been well earned, but looking N along the ridge the next two sisters lay down the gauntlet for some challenging climbing ahead.
The Saddle from Bealach na Carnach. Credit: Ian Battersby
2. NG984149: Drop W down a grass and rock ridge and follow its bend to the N into a broader bealach. Climb very steeply into rockier ground to gain the summit cairn of Sgùrr na Carnach (1002m), a wonderful vantage point for the Forcan Ridge on Saddle to the W. The path drops N down steep rocky areas that need some hand on rock around 950m, but without serious exposure, leading into the next bealach. Another steep climb leads onto Sgùrr Fhuaran (1067m).
Sgùrr na Carnach from Sgùrr Fhuaran. Credit: Ian Battersby
A path of loose stone now drops NW to avoid the imposing N face of this highest of the Five Sisters. Turn N at about 1000m to reach the sharp crest of the northern ridge, the steepest sections of which are sidestepped by the path. Drop into Bealach Bhuidhe, which has a very steep drop to the E. Now climb through a broken wall up a broader ridge of grass and rock. Ignore the path contouring L at 875m and continue climbing on lesser path perched on spectacular cliffs, heading NNW above the East Cliffs to gain the summit of Sgùrr nan Saighead (929m).
Sgùrr nan Saighead from Bealach Buidhe. Credit: Ian Battersby
3. NG975178: The path now turns WNW teetering down along the top of the dramatic North East Cliffs, then bends away to the N, undulating down to 830m. Now climb sharply using hand on rock to gain Beinn Bhuidhe (869m). Take the N path that drops sharply away from this lesser top, dropping down grass between rocks to reach the bealach above Allt a’ Chruinn marked with a small cairn.
Waypoint 4 – Path down Coire na Crìche. Credit: Ian Battersby
4. NG971185: A minor path continues N climbing over a bump (770m) curving NW some distance from the north-eastern edge, passing occasional pools and wiggling around obstacles to reach the summit cairn of Sgùrr na Mòrraich (876m).
Waypoint 5 – Five Sisters ridge from Sgùrr na Mòraich. Credit: Ian Battersby
5. NG966193: Retrace steps to the cairn in the bealach at Waypoint 4. Follow a good path WNW, descending along the north bank of Allt a’ Chruinn. After passing a waterfall (580m) the path gets rough and passes more waterfalls, disappearing in heather and occasional bogs, but picks up soon enough. At 320m the stream disappears down a cavernous gill avoided by the path which veers off to the R, heading N, but bending around the gill edge to the W, with Loch Duich on spectacular display below. Cross a stile and through a deer fence (280m). The tree filled gorge and waterfall scenery amazes from here, a fitting finale for an exceptional hike. After a second deer fence gate at 80m the path turns to track down to a white house, from where tarmac leads down to the lane through the houses of Allt a’ Chruinn.
Further information
PUBLIC TRANSPORT: Citylink Buses 915, 916 and 917 from Glasgow, Inverness, Uig and Portree
TOURIST INFORMATION: Portree iCentre, 01478 612992
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