Fiona Barltrop enjoys a walk in Waterfall Country on the Four Falls Trail in Bannau Brycheiniog.
Situated in the south of the Brecon Beacons National Park (or Bannau Brycheiniog, to use the new name), Waterfall Country, as it is popularly known, is a relatively small area through which several rivers, including the Mellte and Hepste, flow down deep wooded gorges, cascading over a series of dramatic waterfalls, before joining to form the River Neath. Not far from the village of Ystradfellte (where this walk starts) at Cwm Porth is Porth yr Ogof, the largest cave entrance in Wales, where the River Mellte disappears underground before reappearing further downstream. There are several waymarked trails, notably the Four Falls trail (incorporated in this route), which takes in the four most popular waterfalls. The trail is marked with numbered posts and there are information panels along the way at the turn offs for the waterfalls, so you can pinpoint where you are. A Waterfall Country leaflet with a very useful large scale map is available from the Cwm Porth car park shop. Note: there have been high numbers of visitors in recent years, so advisable to avoid bank holidays and weekends, especially in fine weather.
START/FINISH: Car park in Ystradfellte (SN929134) | MAPS: OS Explorer OL12 (Brecon Beacons National Park – Western area) | DISTANCE: 10.7km/6¾ miles | DURATION: 4 hours | ASCENT: 383m/1257ft
1. SN929134: Turn left out of the car park and right in front of The New Inn, passing the church on the left. Continue along the lane crossing the Afon Mellte and take the next footpath on the right which leads to the Cwm Porth car park. The shop here is open every day throughout the year except Christmas Day (9am – 4pm in winter, 8am – 4pm in summer). A signpost indicates the path down to Porth yr Ogof, which is well worth viewing. This is the most popular cave in south Wales for outdoor activity groups so you may well find lots of youngsters around, clad in waterproofs, with helmets and torches.
Porth yr Ogof cave entrance, pt 2. Credit: Fiona Barltrop
2. SN928124: Cross the road and you have two options. The recommended route is to turn left uphill then right along a track/public footpath and follow this to Hendre-bolon and an intersection/signpost 11 beyond, where you join Four Falls Trail. Turn right down to waymark post 13. (Alternatively from the road you can continue along the path signposted for Sgwd Clun-Gwyn, keeping ahead at a gate – a path that forks right is signed ‘Access for Cavers’. Before long you reach a grassy area and a path – with rocks and roots, so not easy walking – continues alongside Afon Mellte. Carry on past the footbridge to reach post 13.)
Sgwd Clun-gwyn. Credit: Fiona Barltrop
3. SN925109: The Four Falls Trail itself is a red waymarked circuit, off which are green waymarked linear routes (link paths) down to each waterfall. The former are generally wide, good underfoot and with gentle gradients. The latter, which provide great views of the waterfalls, are narrow and un-surfaced and can be slippery in places with many steps. The falls are at their most impressive after rain, of course. Follow the link path which leads down to the first waterfall – Sgwd Clun-Gwyn. Return to the main route/post 13 and bear right signposted for Sgwd yr Eira.
Sgwd y Pannwr. Credit: Fiona Barltrop
4. SN925102: At post number 25 you reach another junction. Turn off right down the link path signed for Sgwd y Pannwr. This is quite a steep path with stretches of boardwalk and steps. At the bottom enjoy the view of the waterfall over to the left, then follow the path northwards alongside the river to visit the next waterfall, Sgwd Isaf Clun-Gwyn. The last section of the path beyond post no 32 is tricky since the ground next to the waterfall is steep, rough and slippery – take care. Retrace steps back uphill to post no 25 and turn right until you reach the next junction at post 35.
Sgwd yr Eira. Credit: Fiona Barltrop
5. SN927101: Turn off right once again and follow the stepped path which descends quite steeply down to Sgwd yr Eira (waterfall of the snow), the most famous waterfall in the area. The soft rock behind the waterfall has worn away leaving enough room to walk behind the cascade. If you are adventurous enough to do so beware unstable rocks and a slippery path. And be prepared to get wet! Climb back up to post 35 and turn right, following signs for Gwaun Hepste car park, bearing right at a 4-way junction.
The Four Falls Trails is relatively well signposted. Credit: Fiona Barltrop
6. SN936124: Continue from the car park to the road and turn left, keeping ahead at a fork back down to Ystradfellte. The New Inn not only provides welcome refreshment, but for those wishing to stay in the area, it has a camping field and bunkhouse available (the latter for groups)
Further information
PUBLIC TRANSPORT: None to start
TOURIST INFORMATION: Brecon Beacons National Park Visitor Centre (01874 623366), breconbeacons.org
